A Road Trip: Exploring the Eastern U.S. with Markus

Monday, August 01, 2022

After a short trip to Jakarta and Surabaya – stay tuned for more –, it was time to shift gears and embark on a new adventure – a road trip across the eastern United States with my good friend Markus. This journey promised a different kind of excitement, blending the thrill of exploration with the comfort of reconnecting with an old friend. Markus, who had been living in the U.S. for a couple of years, suggested the trip during one of our rare phone calls. It didn’t take long for us to decide that a road trip was the perfect way to explore the diverse landscapes and vibrant cities of the eastern U.S.

The Longest Flight

The adventure began with the longest regular flight in the world – Singapore to New York on SQ24. I was thrilled about this flight, not just because of its duration but also because the plane had no economy seats, only premium economy and business class. The journey was smooth, albeit slightly marred by an overzealous seat neighbor convinced my foot would accidentally open the plane door. Despite this minor annoyance, the flight was a unique experience, whisking me halfway around the world in just 18 hours and 40 minutes.

Landing in New York, I spent my first night at a modest Hilton in the heart of the city. The next morning, bagel in hand, I boarded a train to Philadelphia. The train ride was surprisingly comfortable, and soon enough, I was reunited with Markus at the station. We wasted no time catching up on lost years and shared stories over a meal before heading to his place in King of Prussia.

Starting the Road Trip

The real journey began the following day. Our plan was to drive from Pennsylvania down to Louisiana and then loop back up along the eastern coast. The route would take us through a mix of bustling cities and serene landscapes, offering a perfect blend of urban excitement and natural beauty. Our first stop was Mount Vernon, George Washington’s historic estate. The sprawling grounds and well-preserved mansion provided a fascinating glimpse into the life of the first U.S. president.

A Taste of the South

From there, we headed south, making our way through Virginia and into North Carolina. The change in scenery was immediate and refreshing. Rolling hills and lush greenery replaced the urban landscape as we ventured deeper into the South. Our journey took us to Asheville, a charming city nestled in the Blue Ridge Mountains.

The second night on our trip, we found ourselves at a quaint little hotel that had all the charm of an old-school American motel. As we walked into the bar, we were greeted by the barkeeper who seemed genuinely excited to have travelers stopping by. The place had a rustic feel, with everything made from wood, deer heads mounted on the walls, and a selection of twenty different craft beers. It felt like a scene straight out of a classic American movie.

The atmosphere was relaxed, with country music playing softly in the background. A man wearing a hat with the US flag was chatting with the barkeeper, and the big TV on the wall was turned off, as if to emphasize the importance of good conversation over mindless entertainment. This was America at its best, a warm, welcoming place where stories were shared over a cold beer.

The Thrill of the Blue Ridge Parkway

The next morning, we continued our journey along the Blue Ridge Parkway. This stretch of road is renowned for its stunning views and scenic overlooks, and it did not disappoint. We took our time, stopping frequently to take pictures and simply soak in the beauty of the landscape. Driving along the winding roads, with the mountains rising majestically around us, was an experience I won’t soon forget.

Our car, a classic American muscle car, added to the thrill of the drive. Unlike the sleek, agile sports cars of Europe, this beast had a weight and presence that you could feel in every turn. The deep, resonant growl of the engine echoed through the tunnels we passed, making the whole car vibrate. It was the perfect vehicle for this kind of road trip, embodying the spirit of American adventure.

One unplanned stop was Mount Mitchell. Standing at 6,684 feet, it’s the highest peak east of the Mississippi River. We hadn’t initially planned to visit, but the sight of the towering mountain was too tempting to resist. Driving almost all the way to the top, we were rewarded with panoramic views that were simply breathtaking. It was a short detour but one of the highlights of our trip.

A Glimpse into Cherokee and Gatlinburg

After leaving Mount Mitchell, we made our way to Cherokee. This small town, with its rich Native American history, was a fascinating stop. We visited the Oconaluftee Visitor Center, which provided a great insight into the cultural heritage of the area. From there, we headed to Gatlinburg, Tennessee, a town that seemed to encapsulate the essence of Southern charm.

Gatlinburg was a delight. We stayed at a modest motel in Oneida, which, while not luxurious, was clean and comfortable. Our dinner at the Greenbrier was an experience in itself. The stone building, with a G emblazoned on top, offered a cozy, rustic atmosphere. We enjoyed a meal of grits with a generous dollop of butter, followed by steak with sauce béarnaise, asparagus, and glazed carrots. It was a feast that left us thoroughly satisfied.

The Road Ahead

The Royal Inn in Oneida may not have been the most luxurious place we’ve stayed. It was one of those motels you see in movies, with simple, no-frills rooms. After a long day of driving, Markus and I sat outside our rooms, enjoying a beer and a cigarette.

After waking up in this not-so-cozy motel, with an incessantly noisy AC by a noisy highway, we set our sights on the Mammoth Caves. With over 600 kilometers of underground passages, it’s the world’s most extensive cave system. Admittedly, we weren’t thrilled at first, but it was a must-see detour that took us a bit north into Kentucky before heading south to Nashville.

The visitor center at Mammoth Caves was bustling, and parking was a bit of a challenge. After navigating through the crowds, we finally got to explore the caves. The accessible section was impressive but not quite as grand as the statistics had led us to imagine. Still, it was worth the visit, especially noting the measures taken to protect the bats, like the shoe-cleaning stations to prevent the spread of harmful microbes.

Onward we drove, making miles down to Ski Daddy’s for lunch—a family-owned joint known for deep-fried American classics. We indulged in fries, fish, and mozzarella sticks. It was okay, not life-changing, but a decent slice of local flavor.

Nightlife and Nostalgia in Nashville

Arriving in Nashville, we checked into a charming Airbnb in a quintessentially American house just outside the city center. Spacious garden, cozy terrace, and well-maintained interiors—it was a perfect base.

Nashville, often synonymous with country music, was a revelation. The city center was alive with energy. We stumbled upon a parade of sorts, only to be told it was just a regular Saturday night. People were partying on converted buses, dancing, and singing along to blasting music. We joined the crowd at Honky Tonk Central, a massive bar where live country music filled the air. The atmosphere was electric, with locals and visitors alike reveling in the lively nightlife.

We mingled with folks from all over, including a bunch from California who had flown in for the weekend. The camaraderie was palpable, and the night stretched into the wee hours. Back at our Airbnb, we crashed into a deep sleep, exhausted but exhilarated.

Memphis: Echoes of Elvis

The next morning, still buzzing from Nashville, we hit the road to Memphis. Breakfast via Uber Eats was a letdown—$26 for a sad avocado toast that was little more than a thin smear on cheap bread topped with Costco bagel mix. Not the gourmet start we hoped for, but it fueled us enough to continue our journey.

Driving into Memphis, the vibe shifted. We cruised by Graceland, the legendary home of Elvis Presley, capturing a few snapshots of the opulent exterior and vintage airplanes. The museum itself we skipped—too touristy for our taste, but the outside spectacle was enough to appreciate Elvis’s legacy.

For a quirky dining experience, we hit a Sonic Drive-In. Unlike a typical drive-through, this was a drive-in where you park and order from your car. A server then brings your food directly to your vehicle. It felt nostalgic, like stepping into an old American movie scene. The food was typical fast food—nothing to write home about, but the experience was unique.

Sleeping where History was made

That night we stayed in a unique Airbnb that doubled as a recording studio. The charm of this place was undeniable, with its retro decor and memorabilia from the golden age of music. Sleeping in a place with such a rich history was an experience in itself, and it set the tone for our exploration of Memphis.

Our evening stroll through downtown Memphis led us to The Waltz, a local hotspot, followed by a visit to the Lorraine Motel. This motel is famous as the site where Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. was assassinated in 1968. The motel has been preserved to look as it did in the ’60s, complete with vintage cars parked out front. It was a poignant experience, reminding us of the significant historical events that took place here.

Hungry from our sightseeing, we headed to Central BBQ for a quintessential Memphis meal. The BBQ in Memphis is legendary, and it did not disappoint. Markus had a feast of sausage, pork ribs, chicken, cornbread, and corn salad, while I indulged in pork ribs, brisket, pulled pork, and baked beans. The craft beer selection was excellent, rounding off a perfect evening.

Discovering the Delta

The next day, we made our way to the Bass Pro Shop Outdoor World in Memphis. This isn’t just any store; it’s a massive pyramid-shaped building that is part amusement park, part outdoor retailer. You can find everything from baseball caps to yachts here.

From Memphis, we drove along the Mississippi River, witnessing the changing landscapes as we traveled south. The flatlands of Mississippi were a stark contrast to the mountainous regions we had passed earlier. The drive was a journey through history, with numerous signs and landmarks marking the sites of old plantations and Civil War battles.

One of our stops was the Vicksburg National Military Park, a drive-through museum that offers a glimpse into the Civil War era. It’s fascinating how you can drive through this vast park, taking in the history from the comfort of your car. The sheer scale of the park was impressive, and it gave us a deeper appreciation for the history of the region.

Embracing New Orleans

Our journey culminated in New Orleans, where we stayed in one of the best Airbnbs of our trip. The house was enormous, with a giant kitchen and a living room that could easily fit four of mine back home. The French Quarter location was perfect, allowing us to immerse ourselves in the vibrant culture of New Orleans.

We spent our days exploring the city and our nights indulging in the local cuisine. One day, we went on a swamp tour with Ragin Cajun Boat Tours. These flat-bottomed boats, equipped with fans, skim across the shallow waters, allowing you to get up close to the wildlife. We saw alligators, birds, and other swamp creatures. At one point, my baseball cap flew off into the water, and our guide had to retrieve it, only for me to throw it away later because it smelled like swamp.

Continuing our Louisiana adventure, we dined at a traditional restaurant where Markus enjoyed a plate of oysters, and I tried alligator bites. They tasted surprisingly like chicken, albeit a bit softer. Our evenings were spent wandering the iconic streets of New Orleans, with their famous balconies and lively atmosphere. The city’s unique blend of cultures and history made every moment unforgettable.

Jacksonville: Missed Connections and Meat Feasts

Our road trip went on to Jacksonville, Florida. The plan was to reconnect with Will, a friend I had met in Taiwan years ago. Unfortunately, our schedules got tangled, and we missed each other by a day. It’s a bummer because I really liked the guy, but such is life. We haven’t been in touch since then, which is a bit sad.

However, Jacksonville wasn’t all about missed connections. Markus and I indulged in a Brazilian barbecue at Terra Gaucha Brazilian Steakhouse. If you haven’t experienced a rodizio, let me paint a picture: waiters walk around with massive skewers of meat, slicing off pieces directly onto your plate until you flip a sign from green to red. The highlight for me was the grilled pineapple dessert, coated in sugar and cinnamon. It was a sweet ending to an otherwise uneventful stay in Jacksonville.

Southern Charm at Cracker Barrel

The next morning, we hit the road northward and stopped for breakfast at a Cracker Barrel in Kingsland, Georgia. This place is a Southern US institution, serving hearty meals that are a bit too heavy for my taste. I tried to avoid the carb overload, but Markus had no such reservations. He drove for the next few hours while I battled a food coma.

Cracker Barrel also has a quirky store attached to it, selling everything from trucker hats to old-fashioned candies. It’s like stepping into a time capsule of Americana, and it’s worth a visit just for the novelty.

Savannah: A Brief but Memorable Stop

Our journey took us to Savannah, Georgia, a city that oozes Southern charm. We didn’t stay long, but we made the most of our time with an Old Town Trolley Tour. The tour guide was entertaining, and the city’s historic architecture was captivating. Savannah’s old brick houses and cobblestone streets make it a picturesque stop, even if it’s just for a few hours.

Litchfield Beach: A Slice of Artificial Paradise

From Savannah, we headed to Litchfield Beach, South Carolina, where we stayed at a country club. The place was meticulously maintained, with lush green lawns and an artificial lake. It felt like a retirement haven for wealthy Americans. Dinner at Perrone’s Restaurant and Bar was a highlight, featuring a hearty steak and lobster tail combo.

The next morning, we stumbled upon a quaint market that offered “German specialties.” It was a nostalgic touch, and the sandwiches we grabbed there were top-notch.

Exploring the Outer Banks

We didn’t linger in South Carolina and soon found ourselves in North Carolina, specifically the Outer Banks. This string of narrow, long islands stretches along the coast and offers a unique blend of natural beauty and laid-back vibes. Wilmington and Kure Beach were particularly memorable, with their relaxed beach town atmospheres.

One of the highlights was taking a ferry from Cedar Island to Ocracoke. This remote stretch of the Outer Banks is like stepping into another world. The ferry ride itself was an adventure, offering stunning views of the Atlantic Ocean.

Kitty Hawk: A Night of Fun and Culture

Our journey continued to Kitty Hawk, where we stayed in a charming Airbnb. The host welcomed us with a beer, and I took a quick dip in the Atlantic. Dinner at Longboards Grill was a bit of a letdown, but the evening took a turn for the better when we hit Avalon Pier. The arcade games and the lively atmosphere made for a fun night.

Later, we wandered into a bar hosting a karaoke night. There, we met a semi-professional NASCAR driver who was the epitome of American culture. His mullet, trucker hat, and proud parents made for an interesting conversation. It was a fascinating glimpse into a world so different from ours.

Wrapping Up in King of Prussia

After a night of fun in Kitty Hawk, we decided to head straight back to King of Prussia, Pennsylvania, where Markus lives. The drive was uneventful, but it felt good to be heading back to familiar territory. We spent the next few days relaxing, reminiscing about our trip, and indulging in some culinary adventures.

One of the highlights was a visit to a local deli at Chesterbrook Village Shopping Center, where I had the best pastrami sandwich of my life. Sadly, when we tried to revisit it a year later, it had closed down.

Before I left for Singapore, we also explored Gettysburg National Military Park. This sprawling park offers a drive-through museum experience, taking you through historic battlefields and monuments. It’s a unique way to learn about American history.

We also visited an Amish village, which was a fascinating peek into a simpler way of life.

The Journey Home

Finally, on August 20th, I left from JFK Airport for an 18-hour flight back to Singapore. The flight was surprisingly comfortable, and I arrived home ready for my next adventure. But that’s a story for another time.