High Altitudes and Holy Sites: A Birthday to Remember in Bhutan

A Mysterious Beginning

The excitement of an unknown destination can stir a unique blend of nervous energy and exhilarating suspense. That was precisely what I was feeling as we approached the airport early in the morning. It wasn’t until we stood before the Druk Air counter—the national airline of Bhutan—that the puzzle was completed. Druk is the thunder dragon, a symbol of Bhutan, and not “just a local name for Bhutan”, as I falsely state in my podcast.

Nat, ever the orchestrator of surprises, had outdone herself by booking us on a business class flight aboard a tiny, specially modified A319 Airbus. This aircraft, adapted for the unique challenges of Bhutan’s mountainous landscapes, was our chariot into the unknown. The check-in process was quaint, reminiscent of a bygone era where boarding passes were handwritten and check-ins were managed against a physical list by a kind but firm attendant.

The Flight into the Mountains

The flight itself was a preamble to the uniqueness of Bhutan. The approach to Paro Airport is notorious among pilots; it’s a thrilling dance between the clouds and mountain peaks, requiring a sharp weave through the valleys. Only a handful of pilots are qualified to navigate this treacherous path, making each landing an act of precision and bravery. As we descended, the landscape embraced us—towering mountains on either side, guiding us to the runway.

Sadly, the Himalayan peaks were shrouded in clouds on our arrival, but the dramatic descent was an adventure in itself. Touching down on Bhutanese soil felt like stepping through a portal into another world—a theme that would continue throughout our visit.

A Quiet Welcome

Paro Airport was unlike any other I’d experienced. Its architecture was more akin to a temple or a fortress than an airport, adorned with intricate wooden carvings and paintings that celebrated Bhutanese culture. Stepping inside, the ambiance shifted dramatically to a quiet, almost reverential silence. It was an airport, yes, but it felt like a sanctuary.

Our guide, Nima, and our driver, affectionately known as Uncle Wanchuk, greeted us with traditional silk scarves and a local rice wine served from a wooden flask. The drink was unique, setting the tone for the culinary adventures that lay ahead. It was here that we first noticed a peculiar local habit—the chewing of betel nuts, which left many with stained, red teeth.

(Here’s an unrelated but interesting article about betel nut girls in Taiwan.)

The Drive to Thimphu

The journey from Paro to Thimphu was a visual feast. Bhutan’s pristine environment and the meticulously preserved architecture had a storybook quality to it. We stopped along the way to capture photos of a Dzong, a type of fortified monastery that is integral to Bhutanese culture. The landscape was a vivid tapestry of greens and browns, untouched by the heavy hand of industrialization.

Thimphu itself was a blend of the traditional and the modern, bustling yet orderly. The local people were reserved but friendly; their smiles were rare but genuine, reflecting a society that values depth over ostentation. Dinner at a local restaurant introduced us to momos—dumplings that were a delightful mix of flavors and textures, paired with surprisingly tasty chili-seasoned fries.

A Morning of Mysteries and Monasteries

The calm after a night’s rest in Thimphu was short-lived, as the anticipation of exploring more of Bhutan woke us early. Our breakfast, though not extraordinary, was the simple fuel we needed before meeting our guide, Nima and Uncle Wanchuk. They were ready to show us more of this enigmatic country, starting with a visit to another dzong.

Driving through Thimphu, we encountered a sight that was uniquely Bhutanese—the city’s main intersection. Remarkably, it had no traffic lights. Instead, a policeman directed traffic from a beautifully decorated booth. It’s said that Thimphu is the only capital city in the world without traffic lights.

The Challenge of Altitude

Our first major hike in Bhutan began at an altitude of about 2,800 meters, climbing to 3,569 meters. For someone not accustomed to such heights, the hike was a breathless endeavor. Despite the physical challenge, the destination was worth every step. We reached a monastery that was both architecturally and spiritually profound, adorned with golden Buddha statues and vibrant wall paintings. The offerings at the altar—ranging from bottles of milk to cigarettes—were as eclectic as they were sincere.

Descending from the monastery offered some of the most breathtaking natural scenery I have ever witnessed. The forest was a patchwork of needle trees, unlike the tropical jungles of Southeast Asia, interspersed with bright rhododendron flowers and small clearings where the sunlight broke through. The tranquility of the forest and the beauty of the trail were almost surreal, reminiscent of a scene from a fairy tale or an epic like “Lord of the Rings.”

Local Life and Culinary Discoveries

Later that day, we had the privilege of staying with a local family. This intimate experience offered us a window into the everyday life of the Bhutanese people. The lady of the house prepared a variety of dishes, including what they referred to as Bhutanese pizza—a delightful creation with a rice base, topped with eggs and greens. We also tasted the national dish, Ema datshi, chili cheese, multiple times. It’s a simple yet flavorful dish that can be quite potent depending on the cheese used. We didn’t become fans.

Our afternoon continued with a visit to a site housing 108 stupas, reflecting the spiritual numerology significant in Buddhism. The setting was picturesque and peaceful, perfect for reflection and appreciation of Bhutan’s spiritual heritage.

Cultural Immersion and Reflections

The following day was filled with more cultural immersion. Entering a dzong (fortresses), you’re immediately struck by the ornate detail: every inch of wood has a story, carved into it with a precision that speaks of centuries-old traditions. The architecture of these dzongs incorporates large, multi-storied courtyards and temples, interconnected by a series of staircases that seem to wind endlessly upward. Each step brings a new angle from which to appreciate the fortress and the sweeping views it offers of the surrounding valley.

The dzong’s prayer wheels add an auditory and tactile dimension to the visual splendor. These wheels, large and small, are often arranged in long rows, each embossed with ancient mantras. Turning these wheels as you pass by is not only a spiritual act, meant to disseminate blessings and peace, but it’s also a moment of connection with the local practices and the devout who have walked these paths before you.

We also visited the longest suspension bridge in Bhutan, which, while modest by some standards, was a marvel in its own right. A highlight of our cultural exploration was an invitation to our guide Nima’s home. Here, we tried our hands at archery, Bhutan’s national sport, and even milked a cow, experiences that were both humbling and hilarious.

Our culinary journey ended on a high note at the Six Senses restaurant, where we indulged in a mix of local and international cuisine, including a succulent fatty brisket and a unique olive oil cake for dessert.

Ascending to Serenity

Our journey continued with a morning meditation session in front of a gigantic golden Buddha statue, the largest sitting Buddha in the region. The serenity of the moment, the stillness of the air, and the grandeur of the statue created an atmosphere of profound peace.

The following hike to one of Bhutan’s remote monasteries was unlike any of my previous alpine experiences, such as the leisurely ski lifts of Zermatt. Here, the trek itself was a test of endurance and spirit, markedly different from the mechanical ascent of the Swiss Alps. At around 4,000 meters, the thin air of Bhutan’s high altitudes was palpable, making each step a conscious effort.

Our destination was Phajoding, a monastery perched in the solitude of the mountains, where we were to spend the night. The approach was steeped in the kind of anticipation that comes with entering a sacred space, not just to visit, but to partake in its ancient rhythms.

A Night at the Monastery

The monastery offered an austere welcome: simple, stark, yet profoundly peaceful. Accommodations were in a guesthouse adjacent to the monastery—a humble structure with just the basics for sleeping, including mats on the floor and a single electrical heater that barely staved off the night’s chill. The simplicity of our lodgings was a reminder of the monks’ ascetic lifestyle, which focuses on spiritual rather than material richness.

Dinner was equally spartan. As evening fell, the monks began their prayers, their chants accompanied by long horns that echoed hauntingly through the cold air. These horns, reminiscent of the alphorns of the Alps but deeply rooted in Buddhist traditions, added an otherworldly quality to the already mystical atmosphere.

Engaging with Monastic Life

Our involvement in the monastic life, albeit brief, was profound. We joined the monks for evening prayers, an experience that allowed us a glimpse into their daily practices and spiritual dedication. The opportunity to converse with the monks provided insights into their lives, beliefs, and the disciplined pursuit of their faith.

That night, the temperature inside mirrored the near-freezing outdoor conditions, making sleep elusive and the physical discomfort palpable.

Leaving Our Mark

The next morning, after a challenging night, we participated in a cherished local tradition—hanging prayer flags. This act, symbolic of sending prayers and good wishes on the wind, was especially meaningful in such a sacred space. Climbing a tree to secure our own colorful flags, we left a piece of ourselves behind in this remote corner of Bhutan.

Descent and Return to Normalcy

Descending from the monastery, the landscape shifted. Fewer flowers but a richer tapestry of greens painted a scene straight out of a fairy tale.

Once back at a lower altitude, we indulged in a familiar ritual—sampling local burgers. This return to a more worldly experience was a comforting contrast to the austerity of the monastery. The burger joint, a blend of local and foreign, served up not just delicious burgers but also a Nepalese-style soup that hinted at peanuts without revealing them, rounding off our journey with a taste of the familiar and the exotic.

The Culmination of Culture and Hiking: Tiger’s Nest

The adventures in Bhutan reached new heights—literally and figuratively—as we geared up for the hike to Tiger’s Nest, the gem in Bhutan’s crown of natural wonders. Known officially as Paro Taktsang, this monastery is perched precariously on a cliffside, resembling a scene straight out of a fantasy novel. Often compared to iconic landmarks like the Eiffel Tower or the Statue of Liberty because of its symbolic significance, Tiger’s Nest is a sight to behold and the destination of our most anticipated hike.

The ascent was challenging yet somehow more manageable than our previous treks, possibly due to a combination of acclimatization and sheer excitement. Within about two hours, we found ourselves at the gates of what could only be described as a spiritual fortress. Inside, the monastery was as serene as any other we’d visited, adorned with the familiar sights of golden Buddhas and vibrant wall paintings. Despite its similarities to other monasteries, the setting made it extraordinary. On my birthday, the experience was heightened by lighting a large butter candle, an act that felt both humbling and profound.

A Birthday Among Monks

Later that day, the celebrations took a more personal turn. Dressed in traditional Bhutanese attire, which added an authentic touch to the occasion, we participated in a special birthday prayer and meditation session in a local temple, the Ugyen Pema Woedling Zangthopelri. This was not an everyday occurrence; sitting at the heart of a Buddhist temple, surrounded by monks in song and prayer, was surreal. The monks welcomed us warmly, sharing in the celebration of my birthday. The first slice of my chocolate cake was offered to Buddha, a gesture of respect and gratitude, before sharing the rest with everyone present. This blend of cultural immersion and celebration was unlike anything I had experienced before.

Soothing Traditions and Local Fun

The festivities were followed by a unique Bhutanese hot stone bath. This traditional therapy involved sitting in a wooden tub while hot stones were carefully placed in the water, infusing it with heat and herbal essences. The experience was both relaxing and invigorating, perfect after the day’s exertions.

Our evening continued with local dances and a lighthearted performance involving two people dressed as a yak, adding a playful end to our culturally rich day. This blend of traditional Bhutanese entertainment provided a delightful insight into the local customs and community spirit.

Reflecting on the Journey

On our final day, as we prepared to leave this beautiful country, I reflected on the journey. From the adrenaline of ascending to Tiger’s Nest to the warmth of the local people and the serene moments of cultural connection, Bhutan offered a profound experience.

As we boarded our flight back to Singapore, I carried with me not just souvenirs like the copper Buddha—a quaint reminder of the trip—but memories of a land where spirituality permeates every aspect of life. Bhutan, with its majestic landscapes and deeply ingrained Buddhist traditions, had given me a birthday to remember, filled with lessons in humility, the joy of simplicity, and the beauty of a slower pace of life.