Malaysia's Road Less Traveled: A Tale of Friendship and Light Packing
Sunday, April 30, 2023Travel has always been about the people as much as the places. Reconnecting with my old friend Hatim, who I last met half a year before in South Africa, for a road trip across Malaysia was a reminder of that. There’s something deeply satisfying about plotting points on a map and tracing the route with someone who shares your thirst for discovery. This time around, I was especially eager—fresh off a luggage-laden expedition to Japan, the allure of traveling light promised a refreshing change of pace.
The Art of Packing Light
Hatim and I agreed early on: we’d travel with the bare minimum. After the cumbersome experience of hauling heavy bags through Japan’s bustling streets, the appeal of minimalism was undeniable. So, with nothing but a small leather bike messenger backpack slung over my shoulders, I set off. This wasn’t just any backpack; it was my entire suitcase for the trip, weighing less than 5 kg. Packed within were a few merino wool t-shirts—my go-to for their comfort and durability—a couple of shorts, and essential toiletries neatly tucked into a transparent pouch that complied with airline regulations. I had embraced the art of packing light, and it felt liberating.
Shoes can make or break a travel experience, especially when you choose to forgo the usual footwear for something as simple as flip-flops. On this trip, I opted for a pair of high-quality leather flip-flops, vastly overpriced but equally durable, having survived numerous trips and still holding up strong. They were a testament to the idea that sometimes, the right kind of simple can be just perfect.
Malacca: A Blend of Old and New
Our first stop was Malacca, a city whose historical patina and vibrant night markets create a tapestry of cultural fusion. Our explorations began almost immediately after we arrived. We dined at the Curly Tail, enjoying steaks and sharing a foie gras starter, a nod to the city’s eclectic culinary scene. The pandan cheesecake we tried was an adventure in itself—strange yet familiar, much like the city.
After dinner, we wandered the streets, soaking in the ambiance of The Old Merchant, a bar that perfectly encapsulated the blend of Asian and Western influences with its live music and cozy setting. Malacca’s charm lies in its ability to be profoundly historical yet vibrantly modern at the same time. As we strolled along the river and through the bustling night market, the city’s energy was palpable, a vibrant pulse that fueled our wanderlust.
Cameron Highlands: Nature’s Embrace
Leaving the urban charm of Malacca behind, our journey took us to the serene greenery of Cameron Highlands. This segment of our trip was highlighted by a visit to a vast strawberry farm, where the air was as fresh as the strawberries we picked. Later, we indulged in a local culinary adventure—Mukata, a Thai BBQ hot pot that tantalized our taste buds with its flavorsome broth enriched by the dripping fats from the grilled meat.
Our stay in a quaint Airbnb, reminiscent of a stone villa, provided a perfect end to our days spent exploring the highlands. The mornings were greeted with breathtaking views of the sunrise over tea plantations, a scene so stunning that no camera could truly capture its essence. This part of Malaysia, with its rolling hills and lush landscapes, was a stark contrast to the historical urbanity of Malacca and stood as a testament to the country’s diverse beauty.
A stolen GoPro and a New Perspective
The incident with the stolen GoPro at the cafe was a jarring interruption to our otherwise serene experience in the Cameron Highlands. As we retraced our steps to the cafe, the sinking feeling of loss was palpable—the GoPro wasn’t just a camera; it held memories of our travels, moments that were irreplaceable. When we reached the cafe, a quick scan of the area confirmed our fears: the camera was nowhere in sight. We asked around, hoping for a glimmer of honesty, but it seemed all was lost. That is, until I remembered the GoPro’s remote functionality—a feature I had seldom used but now clung to as a last thread of hope.
Activating the remote beep through the app, we were met with silence at first. Then, a faint beeping echoed from a nearby table, specifically from a young tourist’s backpack. The moment was surreal as the beeping grew louder, drawing the attention of everyone around. The girl’s face turned a shade of red, a clear sign of guilt, as she reluctantly retrieved the camera from her bag. Her feeble excuses were doing little to mask the embarrassment of being caught. Despite the resolution, the incident left a bitter taste.
Georgetown
Arriving in Georgetown under the steady drum of rainfall could have been a dampener, but for Hatim and me, it was merely a shift in our adventure’s backdrop. Georgetown, nestled on the northwest coast of Penang Island, is a gem that shines regardless of the weather. Its old town, brimming with charm and history, beckons with open arms, inviting you to explore its every nook.
A Birthday to Remember
Our exploration of Georgetown began somewhat untraditionally—inside the playful walls of a fun museum. With the rain lashing outside, we found refuge among the oversized installations—it’s not every day you see soup bowls large enough to sit in or giant pasta you can pretend to cook. It was unexpected but ended up being a delightful diversion from the rain and an amusing prelude to a memorable evening.
It was my birthday, and the day brought with it an exceptional celebration. Hatim, together with Nat who joined us remotely, treated me to an exquisite Japanese omakase dinner at Wako Sushi. The restaurant, reserved just for us, provided an intimate setting that allowed us to enjoy the chef’s undivided attention. Each dish was not only a visual delight but an explosion of flavors, making the evening truly special. The thoughtful planning by Hatim and Nat turned the day into one I’d cherish forever.
Georgetown’s Morning and a Journey by Train
The following morning, we visited the Mugshot Café, a spot I remembered fondly from years past. It retained its charm and served a breakfast that perfectly set the tone for the day. Fueled and ready, we then navigated our way to the ferry, crossing over to the mainland to catch a train headed towards Malaysia’s northern border.
There’s something inherently liberating about train travel, especially in regions where time seems to slow down, and the modern world has lightly brushed against the old ways. The trains here are not about luxury; they’re about experience. As we settled into our standard class seats, the rhythmic clacking of the rails and the breeze from the open doors whispered stories of a bygone era. This ride wasn’t just a mode of transportation; it was a passage through the heart of Southeast Asia, wrapped in the simple pleasure of anticipation and the freedom of the open track.
Serendipity and Seas: From Train to Boat
The journey continued as we approached the Thai border, a segment marked by a mix of waiting and wandering. Border crossings have their own rhythm and rituals, and ours was no exception, filled with small discoveries and interactions. Once across, our next leg took us to Surat Thani, a gateway to Thailand’s famed islands.