Solitude in El Nido: From Jungle Retreats to Scooter Adventures

Navigating Solo

After weeks of traveling with Philipp, and our last stop Hong Kong, I found myself embarking on a solo adventure in the Philippines, starting in Manila. Our parting at the airport was emotional. We had spent so much time together, sharing countless conversations and experiences. As I watched him head off to visit his extended family, I felt a strange mix of sadness and excitement for the journey ahead.

Upon arrival in Manila, I checked into the Makati Shangri-La Metro Manila, opting for a splurge on the Presidential Suite on the 21st floor. For the past ten weeks, we had stayed in simple accommodations like hostels, budget hotels, and Airbnbs. This suite, with its separate living room and bedroom, felt like an indulgent reward for enduring those basic stays. The price was surprisingly affordable, less than 200 euros a night, and it was a much-needed luxury. That evening, after a long, hot shower, I decided to explore the neighborhood.

Manila’s Unexpected Welcome

The business district around the hotel was quiet, but as I wandered, I noticed a woman following me. At a traffic light, she boldly offered her services. When I declined, she thought it was a negotiation tactic and lowered her price repeatedly. It was startling and uncomfortable, a stark contrast to the previous weeks. I quickly returned to the safety of the hotel and found solace in the hotel bar. There, another woman approached me, striking up a conversation. When she too suggested a transaction, I was taken aback. It was a strange, unsettling evening, unlike anything I had experienced during the trip with Philipp.

Redemption at the Breakfast Buffet

The next morning, I enjoyed an incredible breakfast at the Shangri-La. The buffet was lavish, offering a variety of cuisines from Western to Japanese, local Filipino, and Chinese. Having no plans for the day other than a flight in the evening, I took my time sampling everything. It took over an hour and left me in a blissful food coma. This indulgence was a highlight, a testament to the luxury of the Shangri-La.

From Manila’s Luxe to El Nido’s Lush

Later that day, I headed back to the airport for my flight to El Nido. This time, I traveled alone on a small propeller plane. The flight was bumpy, but the views of the islands below were stunning. El Nido’s airport was the smallest I had ever seen, and as I disembarked, I realized I had to rely on the pre-arranged transport from my Airbnb. However, all the rickshaws, which served as taxis, had already left. Standing alone on a dirt road, with no way back into the locked airport, I felt a moment of panic.

Fortunately, I managed to get my phone connected, despite the hefty roaming fees, and contacted the Airbnb host. She assured me she would come to pick me up, and about half an hour later, she arrived. Her warm welcome was a relief, and it marked the beginning of my El Nido adventure.

Unlike the usual backpacker crowd who stays in El Nido town for its lively atmosphere and parties, I chose a quieter, more secluded spot. My Airbnb consisted of six or eight huts that resembled wooden tents, located about 20 minutes by scooter from El Nido town, deep in the jungle. Upon arrival, the host informed me that I would be the only guest for the next two and a half weeks. The huts were basic with no AC and no hot water, but I was looking forward to some peace and solitude.

Initially, I embraced the quiet, spending my time reading and relaxing. However, the lack of activities and intermittent power outages made it difficult to stay entertained. There was no cell phone reception at the huts, so to check messages, I had to walk up a hill to get a weak signal, provided there was power.

The Reality of Solitude

After a day and a half of solitude, boredom began to set in. The local girl who took care of the property noticed my restlessness and offered to take me to El Nido town. We rode her scooter along the muddy roads, and I spent a couple of hours in town, buying basic snacks and exploring. There wasn’t much to do, and soon it started raining, prompting the girl to pick me up and take me back to the huts.

For the next two days, I lived off the snacks I had bought, venturing out only occasionally. Realizing I needed more to keep myself occupied, I asked the girl for another ride to the beach. She offered to let me use the scooter, but I preferred her assistance. At the beach, I spent a few hours alone, again without much to do.

Learning to Ride a Scooter

After a few days of this routine, I decided something had to change. I asked the girl to teach me how to ride a scooter. She looked at me as if I were an alien, unable to believe that I didn’t know how to ride one. In the Philippines, even young children can handle scooters with ease. Despite her initial skepticism, she taught me the basics, and I soon found myself exploring the area on my own.

This newfound freedom transformed my experience in El Nido. Riding the scooter was exhilarating. The wind in my hair and the breathtaking scenery made every ride an adventure. One day, I decided to visit the famous three-level waterfalls, about two hours from El Nido. The journey was magical, with lush greenery, rolling hills, and a touch of fog adding to the charm. I felt a sense of pride and joy, having mastered the scooter and relishing the open road.

The waterfalls themselves were stunning. It was quite a hike to reach them, and from the second to the third waterfall, I had to hire a guide due to the challenging terrain. The guide took me through the jungle, and we enjoyed the breathtaking views and took plenty of photos. The descent was quicker, and I felt accomplished as I returned to my scooter.

However, my return journey was met with the heaviest tropical rain I had ever experienced. The downpour was so intense that everyone, including me, had to stop and find shelter. Despite getting soaked and feeling a bit chilly, I made it back to the Airbnb safely, where a warm, simple Filipino dinner awaited me.

Getting active

While my days in El Nido are a bit of a blur, filled with lazy days on the beach and scooter rides through lush landscapes, a few events stand out. One memorable experience was taking one of the famous boat tours. These tours, labeled A, B, and C, take you to different islands and lagoons. I chose a nature-oriented tour, avoiding the more party-focused options. The tour included visits to beautiful spots like Helicopter Island and involved activities like kayaking and snorkeling. The serene beauty of these locations was a highlight of my time in El Nido.

Reunions and Celebrations in El Nido

Another notable event was a beach party for one of Eric’s daughter’s birthdays. It was a delightful evening with good company and delicious food. I also reconnected with Sebastian from Germany, whom I had previously met in Hong Kong and Taiwan. He was there with his girlfriend, Iman, who is now his wife. It was wonderful to catch up with them and share stories over dinner.

During my stay, I also kept in touch with Han, a friend from China whom I met in Moscow. It was amusing to see his attempts at spelling Philipp’s name in our messages, with variations like “Plilp” and “Plilip.” Despite the distance, these connections added a sense of continuity to my travels.

Sad Goodbyes and Reflections

Eventually, Philipp and his girlfriend arrived in El Nido. I rode my scooter to their Airbnb, navigating the jungle paths. However, Philipp had fallen ill and was considering cutting his trip short to return home. It was a sad moment, realizing that our long-planned world trip was coming to an end. We spent a quiet evening together, reflecting on our journey and the experiences we had shared.

As I walked back through the jungle to my scooter, I felt a profound sense of solitude. Although I enjoyed being alone, the end of this chapter with Philipp was a poignant reminder of the transient nature of travel.

Back to Manila

The next day, I spent my remaining time in El Nido before heading back to Manila.

In Manila, I returned to the same hotel and room at the Shangri-La. I did a bit of sightseeing, visiting places like Plaza de Roma with its European-style architecture. I also met up with a local through Couchsurfing, who introduced me to the local market and encouraged me to try balut, a traditional Filipino delicacy that is essentially a fertilized duck egg. The combination of meat and egg flavors was unique and a bit challenging, but it was an experience worth having.

After another excellent breakfast at the Shangri-La, I flew to Kuala Lumpur. But those stories are for another time.