Neon Nights and Mountain Hikes: From Mongolia to South Korea

An Unexpected Turn in Mongolia

Traveling often involves unexpected twists and turns. Such was the case for Philipp and I during what was supposed to be our monumental journey by train from our little town near Mannheim, Germany, all the way to Beijing. But geopolitics and visa issues can toss even the best-laid plans into disarray, and our dream of reaching Beijing was dashed before it truly began. We found ourselves stuck in Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia, unable to secure the necessary visas due to ongoing Silk Road disputes.

Faced with this roadblock, we didn’t sulk for long; the essence of travel, we realized, isn’t just about reaching a destination—it’s about the journey itself and the experiences along the way. With Beijing off the table, our sights shifted to new horizons. Our choice? South Korea—a land neither of us knew much about beyond the basics of its democratic stature and its split from the North.

A New Destination: Incheon, Korea

Our reroute took us to Incheon International Airport. Landing in Korea was like stepping into a future we hadn’t imagined; the airport was a marvel of efficiency and design, a stark contrast to the rugged charm of Mongolia. One of the first things that struck us was the lush greenery inside the airport, welcoming us with open arms to Korea’s technologically advanced embrace.

This experience extended beyond mere aesthetics. For the first time, I encountered ATMs that were nothing like those back home. They were sleeker, operated flawlessly, and were indicative of a broader technological independence that set Korea apart. Even navigating required a shift from our usual tools—Google Maps was out, replaced by Kakao Maps and Naver, platforms that I was unfamiliar with but quickly came to appreciate for their local precision.

Seoul: A Blend of Tradition and Modernity

After a quick train ride, we found ourselves in the heart of Seoul, staying in a cozy hostel in Hongdae. It didn’t take long for the vibrant energy of the city to pull us into its rhythm. Our first culinary adventure involved a daring encounter with one of Korea’s famed dishes—spicy octopus. The dish was a fiery test of our palates, and despite the tears and burning lips, it was a meal to remember for its sheer intensity and flavor.

Eager to delve deeper into the culture, we booked a tour to the Demilitarized Zone (DMZ), the border dividing North and South Korea. The experience was eye-opening, though it left us with mixed feelings, as the presentation seemed tinged with propaganda, a stark difference from the more nuanced historical narratives we were accustomed to in Germany.

Cultural Surprises and Lessons Learned

The day continued with an unplanned stop at a ginseng museum, which, despite being an informative experience, felt overly commercialized. This minor setback, however, did little to dampen our spirits. Later that evening, we explored Hongdae’s bustling streets, mingling with locals and travelers alike through Couchsurfing meetups, and experiencing the neon-lit nightlife that seemed a world away from the quiet, vast landscapes of Mongolia.

Throughout these experiences, I found myself collecting playing cards—a new hobby that started whimsically at the airport in Mongolia but grew into a meaningful collection of memories, each deck a tangible reminder of the places we’d visited and the experiences we’d had.

Bright Lights and Heavy Metal Bars

Our first night out involved a dive into the local music scene at a Korean heavy metal bar, a stark contrast to the traditional images one might conjure about the country. The night was lively, filled with the kind of raw energy that only live music and good company can provide.

Conquering Mountains and Cultural Barriers

The next day, nursing mild hangovers, we decided to indulge in Korea’s national pastime—hiking. Philipp had discovered a popular trail just outside Seoul. The experience was yet another dive into the local way of life; even the bus ride to the trailhead was an adventure, with its unique payment system and entry-exit protocol. As we ascended the mountain, the city’s sprawling expanse unfolded below us, bordered by old defensive walls and dotted with military outposts. The hike offered not just stunning views but also a quiet moment to reflect on our journey’s unexpected turns.

An Evening with Frederick

Returning to our hostel, we met Frederick, a fellow traveler with a mysterious array of passports. Intrigued by his story, we learned he was an onboard courier—a job that sounded as thrilling as it was hectic. That evening, Frederick introduced us to the quintessential Korean barbecue experience. The flavors were rich, the meat finely marbled, reminiscent of the famed Japanese Kobe beef but with its unique Korean twist. The meal was an elaborate affair, centered around a grill built into our table—a first for me and a culinary revelation.

Our days in Seoul were a whirlwind of activity. From Couchsurfing meetups to exploring the lively streets of Hongdae, every moment was packed with new experiences. The area was a hub of youth culture, buzzing with energy from the numerous universities nearby. We indulged in local cuisine, ventured into quirky pubs, and soaked in the urban vibe that is uniquely Seoul’s.

One notable night, after a few rounds of soju, Frederick revealed the mystery behind his multiple passports. His father’s diplomatic status had afforded him a unique set of travel documents, making him an ideal candidate for his urgent courier role. This revelation added yet another layer to our rich tapestry of travel tales.

Reflections and Revelations

Our impromptu trip to Korea turned out to be more than just a detour—it was a deep dive into a culture that was both complex and captivating. Each experience, from the spicy octopus that challenged our taste buds to the serene moments atop Seoul’s surrounding hills, contributed to a broader understanding of this dynamic country. Korea had not been on our radar, but it quickly became a place we love! Next stop: Japan.