Greenland: An Arctic Adventure

Two years ago, a new camera entered my life, bringing along a path I hadn’t anticipated: free workshops on mastering photography. These weren’t just any classes; they were gateways to an adventure that would eventually lead me to the icy, rugged landscapes of Greenland. The first workshop was a humble beginning in a small room, but it was the second one, amidst the backdrop of Punggol’s sea and sunset in Singapore, where my journey truly began. There, I befriended Han and Germaine, photographers whose stunning Greenland captures on Instagram had long captivated me. Little did I know, a casual inquiry about joining them would catapult me into an Arctic adventure beyond my wildest dreams.

Preparing for the Arctic Chill

Greenland, a land so distant from my tropical existence in Singapore, was an enigma. My only brush with the Arctic had been a trip to Iceland years back, which, while impressive, did not prepare me for the vast wilderness of Greenland. As the trip approached, our lively WhatsApp group buzzed with anticipation and a fair share of apprehension about the cold. Coming from the perpetual summer of Singapore, the thought of Greenlandic cold sent me on a last-minute shopping spree for insulated gear — a decision that proved both prudent and excessive as the adventure unfolded.

A Rocky Start to the Adventure

My journey began with a flight to Paris, a brief sojourn in Germany, and then a reunion with the group in Reykjavik — or more precisely, Keflavik, given the airport’s actual location. Our first hiccup came with a wind-cancelled flight, turning our anticipation into an extended stay in Iceland’s volatile weather. Yet, this delay offered us moments of camaraderie and unexpected delights, such as the excellent dinner at the Kef restaurant and the pragmatic warmth of the Keflavik microsuite, despite its sulfur-scented showers, a quirk of Iceland’s volcanic bounty.

First Impressions of Greenland

Finally, Greenland. The flight to Kulusuk was a preamble to the raw beauty and harsh realities of Arctic travel, with its small airports and weather-dependent schedules. Our intended helicopter ride to our final destination was thwarted by the weather, leaving us stranded yet again. However, even in these moments of delay, Greenland revealed its charm. The rustic hotel in Kulusuk, adorned with polar bear fur, served as a gateway to our first photographic expedition under the Arctic sky, painting colorful houses against a backdrop of ice and stone.

The Majesty of Ice and Northern Lights

My preparedness for the trip, armed with a high-end camera and enthusiasm, met its match in the seasoned photographers of our group, who taught me the value of dual camera bodies in the cold. The kindness of Han, lending me a spare body, and the innovative solutions we found, like a boat ride to Amsilak in lieu of the helicopter, underscored the adventure’s spirit. I witnessed icebergs for the first time and the serene beauty of Amasilak’s landscape was transformative.

During the day, Greenland’s warmth is surprisingly mild, offering a pleasant break from the cold you’d expect. But as night falls, the scene shifts dramatically to something almost surreal—the Northern Lights or Aurora Borealis. This stunning display, a result of solar particles clashing with Earth’s magnetic atmosphere, splashes the sky with vibrant greens and, occasionally, pinks and violets.

Our group, equipped with cameras and bundled up against the cold, dedicated many hours under the stars to this captivating phenomenon. Witnessing the Northern Lights is an incredibly deep experience, far surpassing the beauty we managed to capture in photos. It’s like being part of a universal dance, with the lights weaving patterns that ignite a mix of wonder and a profound sense of connection.

The challenge of photographing the Northern Lights turned into our nightly endeavor, a test of our endurance against the biting cold. Despite all our preparations, the Arctic’s icy grip was a constant reminder of the harsh yet stunning environment surrounding us. However, enduring the cold was a small sacrifice for the awe-inspiring sight of the lights, which never repeated a pattern, ensuring each night’s display was unique.

But the Northern Lights are more than just a visual treat; they’re a link to ancient stories and legends of the Arctic’s indigenous cultures. These lights have sparked tales of deities, spirits, and the afterlife, shared by those who’ve lived under their glow for generations. In the quiet, expansive icy wilderness of Greenland, the lights seem to narrate these age-old tales, adding a profound layer to our experience.

Our evenings spent in pursuit of the Northern Lights were undoubtedly the pinnacle of our journey to Greenland, reminding us of the world’s extraordinary beauty and mystery. This fleeting and elusive experience left an indelible mark, ensuring our memories of the lights remain as vivid and lively as the spectacle itself.

Cultural Immersions and Culinary Adventures

Every day in Greenland was an adventure, far richer and more personal than I could have ever anticipated. From the moment we stepped onto its vast, untouched wilderness, it was clear that this was a land that defied the ordinary. One of the experiences was tasting whale blubber, a traditional dish that, while challenging for our palates, offered a tangible connection to the Inuit way of life. Similarly, the Tupilak carvings, intricate and laden with myth, spoke of a world where the spiritual and the earthly intertwine seamlessly.

Amidst this, the clear waters, massive icebergs, and the stark absence of trees painted a landscape so surreal it often felt like stepping into another dimension—one that photography and words struggled to capture fully. This sentiment was echoed in my interactions with Lukas Jahn, a fellow traveler whose passion for capturing Greenland’s essence on his YouTube channel inspired me. His dedication to portraying the raw beauty and the harsh realities of this land added depth to my own experience.

Both, a spoken and much more raw, less AI-polished version of my experiences in Greenland as well as links to Lukas you can find at my podcast Sleepless in Singapore.

Reflecting on a Journey Unforgettable

Greenland was a journey of contrasts — of unexpected warmth amid the cold, of timeless landscapes and fleeting moments captured under the Northern Lights, of the solitude of remote huts against the backdrop of communal laughter. It was a reminder of the planet’s fragility, witnessed in the receding glaciers, and of humanity’s resilience, seen in the hunters’ respect for their environment. As we departed Greenland, the memories of icebergs, Northern Lights, and a world untouched by time lingered, reminding us of the adventure’s lasting impact on our hearts and minds.