Vietnam: From Hanoi to Sapa and Halong Bay

Wednesday, August 02, 2017

Arrival in Hanoi

The flight from Bangkok to Hanoi was a budget one, and let’s just say it was as uncomfortable as you’d expect. Long queues, cramped seats, and the general chaos of budget travel. Looking back, I regret not taking the scenic route via train or car from Bangkok, but hindsight is always 20/20. If you have the time, I highly recommend the overland journey—it’s an adventure in itself.

Upon landing in Hanoi, I took a taxi to a quaint boutique hotel in the Old Quarter. These small hotels, often housed in historical buildings, offer a warm and personalized experience. The rooms are modest but clean, and the staff go out of their way to make you feel at home. One quirky detail I remember vividly was the showerhead being at shoulder height, which was quite amusing given that I’m not particularly tall.

Culinary Adventures in Hanoi

Once settled, I ventured out to explore Hanoi’s culinary scene. Vietnamese cuisine had always intrigued me, and I was eager to dive in. My first meal was a refreshing pomelo salad with grilled pork. The combination of tangy fruit and savory meat was a revelation. Next on my list was the iconic pho. I found a highly recommended spot and indulged in a bowl of beef brisket pho that did not disappoint.

Walking through the bustling streets of Hanoi, I couldn’t resist the allure of the street food culture. Tiny plastic stools lined the sidewalks, where locals and tourists alike gathered to enjoy their meals. I joined them, savoring a cold beer and soaking in the vibrant atmosphere. It was during one of these moments that I received a life-changing text from an old friend and colleague, Nikki. He offered me a project that would eventually lead me to cut my trip short and return to Germany, but more on that later.

Exploring Hanoi’s Historical Sites

The next morning, I skipped the hotel breakfast in favor of a banh mi from a street vendor. This Vietnamese baguette, filled with liver pâté and various toppings, is a must-try. With my stomach satisfied, I set out to explore Hanoi’s historical sites. My first stop was the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum, an imposing structure that left a lasting impression despite the gray skies and drizzle.

From there, I took a taxi to the Hoa Lo Prison, also known as the Hanoi Hilton. This former prison, now a museum, offers a sobering glimpse into Vietnam’s tumultuous history. The exhibits, though sometimes feeling more like attractions, provided a poignant reminder of the past. A word of caution: always ensure your taxi’s meter is visible. I learned this the hard way when a driver tried to scam me by hiding the meter and inflating the fare.

Journey to Sapa

The following day, I embarked on a bus tour to Sapa, a mountainous region known for its stunning rice terraces. The bus ride itself was an experience, with unique reclining seats and vibrant neon lights. Despite the colorful chaos, we arrived safely in Sapa, where the lush greenery and rolling hills took my breath away.

Our group set off on a guided hike through the rice fields, donning raincoats and umbrellas as the rain poured down. The trails were muddy and slippery, but the scenery was worth every step. Local children, ever resourceful, helped us navigate the treacherous paths. By the end of the hike, my shoes were ruined, but my spirits were high.

That evening, we stayed at a homestay, enjoying local hospitality and delicious spring rolls. The camaraderie among travelers, coupled with the warmth of our hosts, made for a memorable night. The next day, we hiked back to the main road, where I bought a pair of “original” Nikes for $10 to replace my destroyed shoes.

Halong Bay: Reality vs. Instagram

Our journey continued to a bay adjacent to the famous Halong Bay, chosen to avoid the throngs of tourists. We boarded a traditional boat and set sail, surrounded by towering limestone karsts. The boat itself was charming, with cozy cabins and a delightful barbecue dinner. However, the sheer number of other boats in the area diminished the idyllic image often portrayed on social media.

While the natural beauty of the bay was undeniable, the overcrowding was a stark reminder of the impact of tourism. If you’re planning a visit, consider exploring less frequented areas or perhaps skip the bay altogether to give nature a chance to recover.

A Luxurious End in Hanoi

Returning to Hanoi, I decided to treat myself to a stay at a high-end hotel by West Lake. The serene setting and luxurious amenities provided a much-needed respite from my travels. With a beautiful view of the lake and the city skyline, I spent my final evening in Hanoi relaxing and reflecting on my journey.

As I prepared to move on to my next destination, I felt a sense of gratitude for the experiences and memories I had gathered in Vietnam. From the bustling streets of Hanoi to the tranquil landscapes of Sapa and the mesmerizing waters of Halong Bay, this leg of my Southeast Asia trip was nothing short of remarkable.

Stay tuned for more adventures as I continue my journey through this captivating region to HCMC.